Coffe Bay to Umkomaas: Laid Back Feel except Transport

Coffee Bay was wonderfully welcoming. The hostal was different, in a good way. Upon arrival, it seemed like we were stepping back into our first year uni frosh days: lots of backpackers (hippies and surfers), bar, free arrival drink (which you are only allowed to drink with your left hand or you have to chug it - drinking game anyone?), music, etc. But, the place was very community orriented. They hired local students as guides, as long as they remained in school, created a scholarship to send one student a year to high school for the required 3 years, support local handicraft, etc. We were treated to a traditional dance by local teenagers from the village nearby which was amazing to watch as they sang, whistled and beat upon drums.

We spent our time there trying to figure out what we are going to be doing in S Africa...we think we have it now! (check in on our calendar for an update) And, we managed to do a 4 hour hike along the coast as well. It was hot thirsty work! We were of course followed by school children wanting to be our guides and trying to sell wares. We are definitely in much more of what we imagined Africa to be like. Farm houses and huts dotted jagged coast line and wavy fields of grass covered the hills, it was very picturesque.

We left Coffee Bay yesterday with a desire to go diving. But, as some of you may have heard, S Africa's Indian Coast was hit by the largest swells in over 30 years. Don't worry we are safe, but it has affected the visibility of some of the diving spots as well as caused Millions of Rands of damage to coastline businesses. So that, and things have closed, or changed operating procedures...not to bore you with details, but the first place we stopped didn't offer any diving right now, so we are now are trying to get to Umkomas (currently waiting for a pick up and we found internet, hence the blog).

Our plan is to try and get a couple of dives in at Aliwal Shoal, supposedly ranked in the top ten dives in the world! Then it is going to be off to Kruger National Park for a self-directed safari! We are trying to arrange renting a car and booking some huts in the park to stay at. Our plan is 4 days in the park, and hopefully seeing the BIG 5! From there it is going to be a whirlwind tour backtracking and such, and we hope to work out the details.

All this planning is getting to us... arg.

Hogsback to Coffee Bay: From Middle Earth to Africa

Winding, twisting our way from the beach bliss up to Hogsback was a treat, that was just starting. Monkeys, tropical forests, mountain views and thatched (sp?) roofs waited for us in our retreat at Away With The Fairies. Although it rained we still enjoyed a fireplace in our room and misted in views with monkeys hopping in the branches.

Back to earth, we went on our way to Coffee Bay and we seemed to finally enter Africa. Africa so far has been chilled out beach towns and swanky retreats, but to get to Coffee Bay we passed through rural areas where thatched roofs and mud brick homes passed by along with many moments of cow dodging, goats on the road and many a school child walking home. There were no more white people in these towns. Friendly faces waved at us, but our van must have stood out with its all white passengers.

Coffee Bay seems to be the place to party and relax for a few days or years. The theme party in the bar tonight is "Night of the Living Dead" and we have already had our free welcome drink. This is the circuit for recent frosh leaders and high school kids, but the high school ends there! In this circuit, no one is left out or made fun of. It is a real, friendly atmosphere. Could be the availablitiy of certain herbs, but that is just what we hear, something about Pondo Fever.

Okay. This keyboard has had one too many beers spilled on it. Too Sticky.