After some research and some uncertainty, as well as discussing the amount of time that would be required, we decided to go with a tour company and a guide instead of tackling this on our own. In hind sight, we are not disappointed with our experience, but it is definetly something that we could have done on our own, and it would have saved us some money.
Our excursion began with a 1am pick-up by our guide and a taxi. We were then off to pick up two other groups and then to the bus terminal. We were loaded onto a local bus, and were off...only to stop and continue to pick up passengers until they were standing and sitting in the aisle. The trip was almost entirely in the dark, and we saw very little, but did manage to get some sleep, which is amazing because we hit some crazy punk potholes. The mother of all potholes was heightened by the fact that we were sitting behind the back wheels, but it included a 125lb girl flying 3-4 feet int he air, smashing her head into both the ceiling luggage rack and window and biting her tongue on the way down.
The sun rose at 5am, and we were already driving the road that runs the rim of the canyon. The light that splashed the mountains and the canyon walls created a spectacular picture. Justine busied herself trying to snap pictures through the crack that she was able to open the window.
We arrived in Cabanaconde at around 6:45am, and smartly went for breakfast. We were on our way by about 8am. We were surprised to find that it was just us and our guide Pepe. The agency had informed us that we would be with another group of two, which was part of the reason we went with an agency, in an attept to get some conversation. It quickly became apparant that Pepe spoke very little English, or at least a little less english than Justine spoke spanish. This was good for Justine as she was able to practice her Spanish, and although Chris was unable to speak too much, Pepe spoke slowly, so he was able to pick up much of the discussion without translation.
The first day would be a decent into the Canyon, crossing the Rio del Colca, and then on to Llawar, a small place with tourist bungalos and thermal baths. The trail soon gave us spectacular views of the canyon, and where our trek would be taking us.
The hike to Llawar would take seven hours, and the sun soon began to beat down on us. The trail was well worn and easy to traverse as we went deeper and deeper into the canyon. By about mid-day we reached the bottom and the river. There are numerous gysers and vents in the canyon, and we were lucky enough to be able to see some today. Pepe told us that at times, the one gyser spurts 10m in the air. Unfortunately, we did not get to see this... only a bit of bubbling, but the heat of the geysers combined with the heat of the canyon was impressive.
Hot, dry and dusty can be described as the rest of the afternoon. The canyon gets especially hot not just because of the beating sun but because there are numerous underground rivers and water systems that are heated by nearby volcanoes and volcanic activity. We arrived early enough in the afternoon to enjoy a brief nap in our little cabana and to take two dips in the natural hot springs which sit right beside a loud river.
Very peaceful and tranquile. It was only us and two other groups of two. But whats a remote hike into one of the worlds deepest canyons without a little spice. We went to join the group after our nap for our second dip in the hot springs and were met by two nudists. There is a main pool and a smaller, hotter pool big enough for two people. Those two people obviously felt that bathing suits might hamper the natural healing properties of the water because they were enjoying it o´ natural. They were fun though, both world travellers and interesting to talk to.
So did we mention that Pepe, when he is not guiding, is a cook. What luck. We were told at the agency that there would be no meat on this trip. But Pepe worked wonders with chicken, and we even had caramel pancakes for breakfast. On the last day we had brought in tuna inadvertently and he whipped up a tun- potatoe-mint salad to die for. This is the kind of hiking and camping we need to introduce back in Canada. Hiking in the day, hot springs at night, and some good eats with few ingredients.
The next morning we started around 830am, and man was it a stinker. Hot. We passed through some shade and refreshed ourselves with some fresh picked oranges. Aside from that it was mostly uphill and all in the sun. We saw a few condors over head and a damn lot of cacti. We arrived in the Oasis of Sanguille early in the afternoon, and realised that this was where the quick easy route into the canyon led because there were gringos aplenty. There was a nice cool pool and we spent the day relaxing and enjoying the spectacular cliffs around us.
We were up at 3am on the final day to hike the 3 hours back up the canyon mostly in the dark. We weren´t just doing this for fun, but because in order to get to Cruz del Condor (Cross of the Condor) and to have the best chances of seeing condors, you need to get there by 9am. We were pretty much the last group to leave, but gradually passed the others and made it to the top to see the sunrise.
We took the public bus to Cruz del Condor and on the way passed another view point with condors flying by it. ---There is a story here. Our guide was pretty personable and we got along with him pretty well. We didn´t end up getting charged the park fee of 10 USD ea on the way in to the park, so he said if we went to Cruz del Condor we would for sure get charged. He offered to take us to another lookout, so when we passed the other lookout and saw condors, we were thinking that for sure luck wouldn´t hold out with Cruz del Condor.
Anyway he ended up working his magic (again) and getting us an extra ticket, combined with the fact that "Chris accidentally went into the hot springs for a few hours with his tix in his pocket" and boom we were in with the hords, and I mean hords and hords of people. Clambering all over the lookout point. They say the best time is between 830 and 930 and so by 925 we were thinking we were SOL. Then a few of the mighty birds flew by near the cliff and we all oohed and awwed. Condors are big birds, not beautiful, but big.
So we were suposed to meet Pepe by the ladies selling goods and we wandered over there. Just in time to look back a few meters at the crowd and see a giant condor swoop only a few metres above everyones head. It was a mixed experience because we were in the most perfect viewpoint to see all of this happening, including the fact that it was so low we could see on top of it and the white feathers on part of its back and the detail of its head.... but we were all so awestruck we didn´t get our cameras out on time.
Anyway Pepe again worked his magic and found a friend who had three extra spaces in a private tour bus so we were shuttled back to Arequipa a couple of hours earlier, including pee stops, sight seeing and explanations.
The ride back to Arequipa was beautiful as it crossed over high Andean altiplano (we are talking only rocks and a scrubby grass called Puma) reaching a high point of 4800m. Llamas, alapacas and the wild and rare Vicuñas roamed in the fields and the mighty El Misti loomed in the background.
We arrived in time to run around town looking for shampoo.
1 comment:
This excursion sounded so interesting and full of adventure, with a lot of spectacular sights. I would have loved to see those big birds!!
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